The West Highland Way (also know as WHW) is undoubtedly Scotland’s most famous walking route. It is approximately 154 km (96 miles) from Milngavie to Fort William through the Scottish Highlands (West Highland Way – Wikipedia).
It is a path that can be divided into various stages based on training and the time available. Typically it is walked in south-northwest direction in 8 days or stages. We decided to complete it in four days, making good use of our basic training and a specific organization of the stages which I will explain later. There are no major technical difficulties but the possibility of rain and storms must be taken into account, which could slow down the pace.
Without counting the first part between Glasgow and Milngavie (Kelvin Walk Way), our gps recorded 165 km with 4140 m+ and m-, in about 38 hours.
Before going into the details of the individual days, I’ll leave some general information.
Logistics and accomodation
Logistics are key and really depends on how you organize your days. There are several agencies that organize luggage transportation day by day. We decided to organize ourselves differently and we booked everything well in advance.
- First night in Glasgow: Ibis Style Glasgow Centre George Square hotel
- Second night in Balmaha: Oak Tree Inn
- Third night in Crianlarich: Glenbruar House
- Fourth night in Kingshouse: Kingshouse Hotel
- Fifth night in Fort William: N04 On the Door Apartments
As soon as we landed in Edinburgh we rented a car by Europecar. We headed towards Crianlarich and started looking at the landscape around us. Once we arrived in Crianlarich we left our two luggages with clean clothes and other material at Glenbruar House, where we had booked for the third night.
With a small backpack and a change of clothes, we then continued the journey by car towards Glasgow along the Loch Lomond. Once in Glasgow we returned the rental car and went to sleep in the city centre at Ibis Style Glasgow Centre George Square hotel.
On the first day I set off on foot towards Milngavie along the Kelvin Walk Way, while Agnese took a train from Glasgow Queen Street station, as she hadn’t been very well during the night. We met up again along the way and together we walked along the WHW till Balmaha, where we slept at the Oak Tree Inn hotel.
The third night in Crianlarich we changed materials and took clean clothes for the other two days. And we left the luggages in Crianlarich again. The fourth night we slept at Kingshouse hotel and the fifth night in Fort William at N04 On the Door Apartments.
On the following day we rented a new car and drove back to Crianlarich to collect our luggages. This allowed us to visit some places where the WHW did not pass and also to revisit some parts of the route in different weather conditions.
Starting Point
The official starting point is Milngavie, a small town a few kilometres north of Glasgow, which can be easily reached by train. If you are well-trained and motivated, you can also walk directly from the centre of Glasgow and reach Milngavie on foot, following the Kelvin Walk Way as I did.
Gears
The garment that definitely cannot be missed is the poncho. This allowed us to cover ourselves completely, preventing water from wetting the backpack and ourselves, and also covering the legs, preventing them from getting cold in moments of rain and wind.
We then used trail shoes to move around, changing into a clean, dry pair during our overnight stay in Crianlarich. Personally, I also had some poles with me, but I didn’t use them constantly since the difficulties were really minimal.
For the backpack we opted for a 30 L ones that was light enough to allow us to do short jogging sessions and not just walk.
I also recommend a windbreaker and a pair of gloves.
The path / The route
Once you start the first meter of the West Highland Way it is really difficult to get lost. There are quite frequent indications and signs on signs, trees, stones and other elements along the way. In addition, it is a route known by all the locals (always very helpful and kind) and there are many hikers on the path.
The symbol of the West Highland Way is a stylised thistle (see middle picture below). This emblem appears along the entire WHW to indicate the route, and is often accompanied by directional arrows.
The weather and the temperature
We decided to hike the WHW at the end of April for three main reasons.
The first is that this period represents the least rainy period on average during the year in Scotland. And we can certainly confirm that there was an even distribution of sunny and rainy moments in our four days.
The second reason is that we wanted to avoid summer days with excessive heat. And we can confirm that the temperatures were ideal for the excursion.
The third reason is that we wanted to avoid mosquitoes and insects. In fact, keep in mind that you are constantly walking along lakes, marshes, streams and fields with sheep and cows. Surely in the summer season their presence can be annoying and annoying. Therefore we preferred the still cool spring period and we can confirm that we did not have the slightest annoyance.
The food and drink supply
We have organized ourselves to always be quite autonomous during each single stage. In any case, along the route there are often small shops where you can buy food and drinks.
It is also possible to often find so-called “honesty boxes” where inside there are foods and drinks that can be taken, leaving then in exchange money of your choice.
Among the local products, also useful for the excursion, we tried the Scones with raisins. I even tried Marmite for breakfast one morning, but the flavour was really strong…and it certainly hasn’t become my favourite food (Marmite – Wikipedia).
Extra – Beyond the WHW
Once you arrive in Fort William, you can decide to return to Glasgow or Edinburgh by train and visit the cities. Or you can rent a car, drive 3 hours northwest and spend a few days trekking on the Isle of Skye.
Well, as nature lovers, we opted for this second option and we can only recommend it to those who do not want to end their discovery of Scottish nature in Fort William.
Let’s go now into the details of the individual stages of our West Highland Way.
Stage 0 (Kelvin Walk Way): Glasgow – Milngavie
- Distance: 18.4 km
- Elevation gain: 118 m
- Elevation loss: 85 m
- Date: 24/04/2025
- Start time: 08:41 a.m.
In the morning I said goodbye to Agnese in front of the Gallery of Modern Art and while she headed to the train station, I started my journey into the centre of Glasgow not far from the River Clyde.
After about three km I reached the Kelvin Bridge, and from this point I began to walk following the course of the river.
For the next 5 km you move through city parks, crossed by several cycle paths. Then at the height of the Glasgow University Campus you begin to follow a less anthropized path.
Afterwards you cross paths in open fields, where obviously it is easy to meet the typical sheep.
Just before reaching the first houses of Milngavie (after 16 km) where the Rangers Training centre is located, you cross a small bridge. It is the Prescott Bridge, dedicated to the memory of SSgt “Jim” Prescott who gave his life during the Falklands Campaign in 1982.
Stage 1_WHW: Milngavie – Balmaha
- Distance: 31.5 km
- Elevation gain: 633 m
- Elevation loss: 680 m
- Date: 24/04/2025
- Start time: 11:30 a.m.
Once I arrived in Milngavie I took a short break, I spoke to Agnese on the phone who was already on the WHW and we agreed on a possible meeting point seen in the next few hours.
That Milngavie is the official starting point of the West Highland Way is evidenced by several signs in the town and above all by a stele and a clearly visible entrance in the centre of Milngavie.
In the following kilometers you cross city parks with the path slightly uphill. Then once you reach Craigallian Loch the road flattens out and continues like this for another seven kilometres or so.
There are not many houses along the next section and you have to get to Dumgoyne to find the first refreshment point (The Beech Tree), after about 12 km from Milngavie.
Here Agnese and I met up again, and she reassured me that she was feeling better and that she would be able to complete the entire stage to Balmaha.
Together we continued the WHW, while the beautiful sunny day began to make us feel a bit warm, also because there were almost no shaded areas.
Once we reached the area nearby Drymen, after about 20 km, we began to see the blue waters of Loch Lomond on our left.
The next section goes around Conic hill (361m) in a counterclockwise direction. With the sunny day it was definitely the highlight of the first stage.
After several minutes admiring the view, we left Conic Hill behind us and walked down the second part of the descent, which was particularly steep in some places, but without any problems as the path was completely dry.
After about 20 minutes we arrived at the end of the first stage, at the Oak Tree Inn in Balmaha on the shores of Loch Lomond.
Stage 2_WHW: Balmaha – Crianlarich
- Distance: 49.6 km
- Elevation gain: 1202 m
- Elevation loss: 1039 m
- Date: 25/04/2025
- Start time: 09:23 a.m.
We woke up in Balmaha with a view of Loch Lomond, knowing that this view would accompany us for the first 40km of the stage.
The first 8 kilometers run along the lake, until crossing the beach of Sallochy.
In the next two kilometres you leave the lakeside, you make a short climb and then a descent. And finally you return to the lakeside towards Rowardennan (km 13).
After Rowardennan you pass the “Rowardennan Lodge Youth” camping area and continue to enjoy beautiful views of the lake.
Around 16km there is a deviation. To the right there is a slight climb on a well-maintained mule track. To the left is the original WHW route, which continues along the lake shore but on a trail that is sometimes technical with short descents and climbs among rocks and plants.
The two paths rejoin after about 5 km. We opted for the original WHW route (so we went left), but I recommend being very careful in case of rain and storms as the path can become very slippery.
Towards Inversnaid the path becomes very easy again.
At km 25 you arrive at Inversnaid, greeted by a waterfall generated by the stream that is crossed a few dozen metres higher up. Here you can take a refreshment break at the Inversnaid Hotel.
In the next section there are more passages on rocks (near Ardleish – km 33) but nothing particularly difficult.
You then arrive near Inverarnan (km 37), where there is a campsite, a hotel and a restaurant where you can eat and drink.
The road continues slightly uphill, passing on the right orographic side of the Falls of Falloch, much better visible from the opposite side (where we returned two days later).
After km 45, once you have crossed the river, the panorama changes and the path immerses itself among various yellow flowers downstream from the mountains on the left.
The last few km are on an easy mule track up to km 48.
Here we left the WHW and took the path that in about 1.5 km took us to Crianlarich, where we had dinner and slept at Glenbruar House.
Stage 3_WHW: Crianlarich – Kingshouse
- Distance: 42.6 km
- Elevation gain: 964 m
- Elevation loss: 900 m
- Date: 26/04/2025
- Start time: 09:01 a.m.
In the morning we woke up to cloudy skies and a few drops of rain.
From Crianlarich we returned to the original WHW route and the first few miles were characterised by passage through long stretches of woodland with cut down trees.
After the first few kilometers through the woods, we passed a small cemetery at Kirkton (km 7) and then across wide fields where sheep and cows grazed freely.
At km 9 the path passes near the Lochan of the Lost Sword, where the locand legend suggests that Robert Bruce’s long-sword (Claymore) lies there.
We then arrived in Tyndrum just past a small obelisk along the path.
After a short break at a local shop, we began a section of the trail characterised by typical highland scenery.
Our next break was at Bridge of Orchy, about 23km after our morning start.
The next two kilometres of climbing took us to the top of Mam Carraigh. Here it started to rain more heavily and we sped up our descent a little towards Inveroran (km 27), where there are places to eat and drink.
We then walked a few kilometers on a paved flat road, until we reached the start of the Telford’s Parliamentary road.
From this point we walked about 10 km uphill, which can be divided into three parts: the first quite steep, the second very gentle, the third steep again.
From the top of the climb you could see the Glencoe mountain range to the left, the pyramid of Stob Dearg in the background and on the right the white houses of the Kinghouse hotel, completely isolated in the clearing. We found ourselves in the middle of the rain and saw very little. I’ll add the photo I took a couple of days later when we passed through the area again.
Stage 4_WHW: Kingshouse – Fort William
- Distance: 41.4 km
- Elevation gain: 1099 m
- Elevation loss: 1342 m
- Date: 27/04/2025
- Start time: 09:05 a.m.
The rain from the previous evening kept us company in the morning. After breakfast, despite the continuous rain, we set off along the path.
The first 5 km were flat, whipped by wind and rain and often the path turned into a small stream. Then we reached the start of the first climb of the day: the Devil’s Staircase.
Once we reached the maximum altitude (530 m) and passed to the opposite side of the mountain, both the wind and the rain dropped.
For several kilometers the path turned into an easy mule track that ran alongside the pipes of a hydroelectric plant.
Once we reached Kinlochleven (km 15), where we made a quick stop at a supermarket, the weather improved and it was sunny and warm.
This moment didn’t last long, and after about two hours we found ourselves once again in clouds and rain.
This is a section of the WHW (from km 15 to km 36) completely devoid of any food and drink facilities. It is therefore advisable to be properly equipped.
The rain also gave us the typical colours of Scottish nature.
The last few kilometres are not very exciting. You go on a mule track with the Glen Nevis Caravan and Camping Park visible down on the right and then you go down towards the road (Glen Nevis Road).
From here you walk along the road and after a couple of kilometres you reach the first houses of Fort William (km 40). Here you come across a sign indicating this point as the original end of the West Highland Way.
In reality you have to continue walking to the centre of Fort William, where a statue of a man sitting on a bench and a map engraved on the road surface represent the current end of the West Highland Way.
Additional information
If you want more information or technical details related to this route, please do not hesitate to contact me or comment below.
Other information about ideas for explorations here: Exploring Routes | EmigranTrailer.
Other information about races, results and equipments here: Trail & Running | EmigranTrailer.
Enjoy Hiking & Trail Running!
Andrea De Filippo
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